DISCLAIMER: Everything shared below relates to the care of two specific subspecies of Blue Tongue Skink (BTS), that being Northerns from Australia (Tiliqua Sconcoides Intermedia) and Irian Jayas from Indonesia (Tiliqua Sp.) Many pieces of my care advice are broad and can be applied to all subspecies, but other pieces of advise may not be applicable and potentially dangerous to the well being of a different Blue Tongue Skink.
I do not claim to be a zoologist, nor obtained a formal education in animal husbandry. Every piece of information shared here I stand by, but that does not mean I know everything. Someone else may care for their skink differently than I but it does not mean either of us are wrong. Fortunately, these lizards are quite hardy and have a wide spectrum on what it takes to thrive. I may update this section periodically as I learn more about their needs in captivity.
This is a collection of useful information I have come by from Internet research, various Blue Tongue Skink (BTS) books, tips from other breeders, and evidence-based, trial & error from being a pet owner since 2000. What’s shared below are a combination of unsourced facts as well as personal opinions on various aspects of care. I welcome you to do additional external research if you do not find this information sufficient enough.
WHAT IS A BLUE TONGUE SKINK AND ARE THEY RIGHT FOR ME ANYWAY?
The BTS is the largest lizard in the Scincidae family. Growing to eventually be 1 lbs – 3.5 lbs and roughly the size of your forearm (wrist to elbow), overall they are a hardy medium-sized lizard. Native to both Australia and Indonesia (and Papua New Guinea), they do quite well in captivity in America. They are slow, curious creatures, that have been in the pet trade (as far as I’m aware) since the 1950’s. They like to burrow and often mis-identify your fingers for food – they’ll eat almost anything. Their nicknames include: Smooth Noodles, Sausages, Snakes With Legs, and Pinecones – if you have a Shingleback (Tiliqua Rugosa). They will bond with their hooman, generally accept boops on the snoot, but not afraid to let you know when to leave them alone. They tend to sneeze a few times a day, and show gratitude for changing their water bowl by defecting in it. They get sucked into TV shows but are easily distracted by a dark crevice to burrow in – like the corner section of your couch. Even though they may do some things that have you questioning how they managed to outlive the Dodo, they are quite smart and can use that intelligence to be afraid of you if they are not handled regularly. They have long lives, need a fair amount of space, and especially with the Indonesian species – humidity is key. Additional literature about Blue Tongues care in captivity can be found here, here, here, and here – though I cannot vouch for any care section being up to date other than my own. If anything mentioned above or below seem unlikely to jive with your lifestyle, please take all accounts into consideration before adopting one of these majestic creatures into your home.
Babies (less than two sheds old) are fine in a shoe box size storage container. Multiples may be housed in a 20-gallon tank. If they are fed live food, it is encouraged they be fed individually because once they get an idea to attack moving food, they may take a bite out of their brother or sister. By their second shed they get territorial and need to be separated and housed individually for the rest of their lives.
They are considered babies for the first 6 months of life and a juvenile until they reach adult size. Each grows at their own rate and may be full size at 8 months… or 30 months – yes.
Every once in a while you get a pair or a group that genuinely enjoy being together as adults, but this is the exception and not the norm. I have also seen BTS housed with bearded dragons and frilled lizards but do not recommend this housing set up to a beginner. They are solitary creatures in the wild and it is best to keep them that way.
Adults need 48” x 17” minimum floor space. That is a 40 gallon long. A standard 75 gallon tank works just as well and seems pretty easy to find on Craigslist, though a front facing door is best.
Some people who use rack systems keep theirs in 36” x 18” tubs. I personally disagree with this housing size. These animals enjoy exploring their environment. The more space they are given, the more they will utilize the space. Seeing as how they get to be 18” long on the small end and 28” long on the large end, when you add in water dishes and other furniture taking up residence, a 36” x 18” seems cruelly cramped.
The closer you can provide to 1000 sq. in. floor space or more, the better.
Height is less of an issue. Blue Tongue Skinks (BTS) are ground dwellers and burrowers. If a tank is too tall, they tend to engage in a behavior called “wall riding”. The more they do this, the larger of a dip their spine gets which may create health problems later down the line.
I recommend materials that are dishwasher safe or inexpensive enough to be readily replaced. If they defecate on their furniture, it needs to be cleaned up and sanitized or risk getting the animal sick, or attracting bugs and mites. Natural wood and cork items are notorious for this and difficult to sanitize properly. Purchasing expensive reptile, outdoor themed items are nice, but also not a necessity. A plastic PVC tube suites them well, but remember these reptiles may prefer to curl up vs rest totally extended – more options the better. They require at least one hiding place to feel safe. I recommend adding in fake green vines and plants that allow them to hide. It helps them believe they are in a more natural environment.
A large or extra large water bowl is most appropriate for an adult. Ceramic water dishes, pyrex glass or even shallow Tupperware suites them fine as well. While they may not soak or submerge, like a water dragon, they may run their entire body through the water to get clean. The water bowl should not be deep enough where they can drown, as these creatures are poor swimmers.
I utilize two food dishes, both kept on the cool side. One has dry dog food they can pick at as they please, and the other contains a wet salad mix that gets changed out more frequently. I have also seen people use a third food dish that just has Calcium + D3 powder the skink can dip into when ever they need. Their food bowls should be relatively shallow and can be as small as a ceramic mealworm feeder.
Adding a brick or rough slate to the habitat will be good for their nail maintenance and helps get skin off during shedding. The bricks should be dispersed throughout the tank but slate can be added under the heat light for a nice basking spot. If slate is added under the basking spot, be weary of just how hot that basking spot gets.
I prefer the ZooMed Repti Bark and Forest Floor Cypress Mulch. The more natural wood-type substrates are best. I put in enough for them to burrow and submerge their entire body. You will often find tunnels they have excavated for themselves. I will also add in a type of moss in areas that I add moisture to for humidity. They especially like these areas during shedding. I tend to replace my substrate every 6 months but you may need to do so every month depending on what you choose and how clean you like it. To keep the substrate fresh, till all the substrate every week or two, and every time to the areas you add moisture to as well. When you decide to do a full substrate replacement, a full disinfection and sanitization should be done to the habitat too.
*UPDATE* I recently started using an organic, chemical and pesticide free cypress blend mulch from Lowes. I have to freeze the substrate for 2 weeks prior to use to kill any bugs and mold, and I do not like it as much as the smaller wood chip ZooMed product, but at $4 for a 48 qt. a bag vs $18 for 24 qt. bag of the reptile-made product, one has to pick their battles.
Indoor/outdoor carpet is alright. They still need places to hide to feel safe and I find the carpet is difficult to clean when they defecate. Timothy hay or alfalfa hay will also work but needs to be changed more readily because they are prone to mold.
*UPDATE* I have recently been adding a 30-40% mixture of coconut husk on the hot side to boost my humidity levels. On the positive, it holds moisture well. If you have an Indonesian species, humidity and moisture is especially important. Negatively, there is this rumor floating around, ingestion of the coconut husk can be toxic. As a precaution, I only add it to the hot side and keep all food on the cool side. I’ll add a few cups of water every 2-5 days and till the substrate on the hot side when water is added. This process keeps humidity levels up and mold levels down.
WHAT NOT TO DO
Aspen bedding is ill-advised because it tends to have smaller particles that get lodged in their nose and eyes when they burrow which can cause respiratory and vision health problems. It also dries out their skin. Sand is bad because it can get impacted in their eyes. Paper is bad because it tends to dry out their underbelly skin more readily. Indoor/outdoor carpet does not allow them to burrow, which is a natural part of their life and should be encouraged.
*UPDATE* As an even more experienced breeder brought to my attention, everyone in different parts of the country have different temperatures in their home, different ambient humidity levels, barometric pressures, etc. The point being, there have been many instances where my above mentioned “WHAT NOT TO DO SECTION” can actually be a very safe and suitable decision for your skink. A reminder to everyone reading my care section – what I have listed are my personal endorsements; don’t think to yourself you’re doing things wrong if you care for your skink differently than than the recommendations listed.
Whatever you use, be mindful of temperatures throughout the day.
Underbelly heat is most important to these creatures. Heat pads, heat tape, and heat cable are all acceptable. They need a hot side between 80-95°F with a basking spot of 95-110°F, and a cool side of 68-80°F. Because of this, I do recommend adding a thermostat to your heating element and a heat gun or probe to accurately gauge the temperature inside the habitat. The underbelly heat temperature may be adjusted for day and night.
During their cool down season, “brumation”, which will be discussed later, rules change and temperatures can drop significantly.
If you intend on underbelly heat being or an overhead radiant heat panel as your exclusive heat source, it is recommended adding a UVA/UVB florescent light.
I have seen many BTS live full, long, healthy lives without heat lamps. However, I highly, highly, highly recommend providing it for them. It can be the difference between getting 30 vs 18 years out of your skink companion. They do enjoy the opportunity to come out and bask under the artificial sun part of the day. And if you do use a heat lamp, I highly encourage the use of a 100 watt Mercury Vapor UVA/UVB bulb. It is definitely better for the health and wellness of your skink if they have this in their habitat. It also helps their internal clock determine when day and night are. They should receive 11-16 hours of light a day during the active season, and 8 hours or less, all the way down to zero, during their cool down season. A specialty heat bulb of this caliber requires a ceramic socket or Deep Sun Dome Reptile Lamp.
If you are using underbelly heat AND a mercury vapor bulb, please monitor humidity and temperature levels regularly. Too hot and dry of an environment is worse than too cool and moist.
If you are keeping your skink in the basement or in a home that is traditionally kept below 70- 74°F room temperature, a 75 watt nocturnal bulb must also be added at night.
Do not use heat rocks for BTS or any reptile, really. They tend to fall asleep on them and end up burning their belly, frequently.
*UPDATE* ZooMed recently came out with an 80W version of the mercury vapor bulb shown above. I have been using it in my habitats and find it works better with the squat display tanks I have. You should evaluate the height from your basking bulb to substrate and determine how much power is necessary.
Food should always be washed and chopped to proportions that are appropriate for the size of your BTS. Babies tend to eat every day. Adults eat every 2-5 days. While their menu items tend to be the same, babies need 90-70% protein and adults follow a 60/30/10 or 50/40/10 rule of 50-60% protein, 30- 40% greens & veggies, and 10% fruit. Because of this, babies, 6 months and under, receive wet cat food for it’s higher protein and fat content. Everyone else older than 6 months gets switched over to a wet dog food staple for the rest of their lives. A general rule with BTS is: variety is best. You will also find that each skink has their own personality, preferences, and favorite foods. I recommend staying away from salt, frozen foods, meal (like chicken meal or beef meal), and anything rotten. It is also important to sprinkle on calcium + D3 powder to every meal or keep a bowl of available powder in the habitat at all times. Below is a calcium/vitamin combo product I use all the time.
Arugula, beet greens, collard greens, dandelion greens, endive, escarole, all types of kale and mustard greens are best.
Basil, butter lettuce, bok choy, green cabbage, red cabbage, red leaf lettuce, and romaine lettuce are good secondary options.
Iceberg lettuce should be avoided since it is low in nutrition and difficult for skinks to digest. Spinach should be avoided because it may give your skink an upset stomach – small amounts can be tolerated.
Acorn squash, butternut squash, cactus pad/leaf, cactus pear & prickly pear, green beans,
spaghetti squash, and winter squash are best.
Asparagus, beets, bell peppers, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cauliflower, celery, corn, cucumber, green peas, okra, parsley, sweet potato, radish, yellow squash, and zucchini are good secondary options.
Onion and rhubarb should be avoided as they are toxic to your BTS. I tend to stay away from tomatoes, broccoli, and mushrooms as those can upset the stomach of your BTS as well.
*UPDATE* I have another breeder in my ear telling me it’s not just broccoli, but all Cruciferous Vegetables that can upset a skinks stomach. That includes all kale, cabbages and others. I’m not sold. For years I’ve seen my skinks devour many of these classified foods over and over with pleasure, but watch them get turned off by broccoli.
Apple, apricot, banana, blackberry, blueberry, cantaloupe, cherry, cranberry, fig, grape, honeydew, kiwi, mango, peach, pear, pineapple, plum, raspberry, strawberry, and watermelon are all great options.
Citrus and acidic fruit should be avoided as those can upset the stomach of your BTS.
Avocados MUST be avoided as they are toxic to your skink.
Dubia roaches, earthworms, horn worms/Goliath worms, silkworms, snails, organ meat – like chicken hearts and turkey liver, and wet dog or wet cat food (grain-free, meal-free, high quality, minimal salt) are the best options. With the dog or cat food, you’ll need to read each label, but some brands I trust include: Fussie Cat, Nature’s Variety Instinct, Merrick, PureVita, Taste of the Wild, Tiki Cat, Wellness, Weruva, and Zignature.
Why not Blue Buffalo? In 2018, allegedly, a dog died prematurely due to kidney failure. The owners concluded it was their dog’s food and tested for elevated lead levels contaminated in the food. The class action lawsuit was recently dismissed but Blue Buffalo openly admitted they do not test their products for lead and, to my knowledge, have made zero changes to production or inspection since the lawsuit came about.
Why grain free? Skinks are natural foragers. Even though they will never come across fully cooked spaghetti squash in Australia, the nutrients are in line with their metabolic requirements and easy for them to digest. Grains simply won’t be apart of their natural diet. Bugs, the overall ingredients prepared in wet pet food, and various types of vegetation are all realistic food products a Blue Tongue may scavenge for.
Boiled beef, boiled chicken, boiled turkey, raw or boiled egg, crickets, mealworms, and waxworms are good secondary options.
Crickets are the most common live insect at any pet shop. Why should one not use them regularly? (1) They can carry undetected parasites and diseases. In 2008 I can personally attest to a batch of PetCo crickets killing off several of my Leopard Geckos in a single feeding. (2) They are actually high fat/low protein compared to the favored live-insect-protein, Dubai Roaches. (3) They have a high phosphorus ratio that can cause a health imbalance, putting extra strain on their kidneys. You want phosphorus to be at a 1:2 ratio with calcium, favoring calcium. Crickets are more like 3:1.
Ham, phoenix worms, pinky mice or rats, and superworms can be used as an occasional treat – like a couple times a year and that’s it. We don’t want our scaled friend dying prematurely from a heart attack with clogged arteries.
This is a natural part of the adult’s annual cycle where they go into a hibernation state. My advice is primarily for breeding purposes but some adjustments should be made for the sake of your blue tongue. A few things to keep in mind right off the bat. (1) Babies keep regular summer hours and feeding schedule their first year. (2) Australian subspecies cool down more than Indonesian subspecies. (3) With any of them, after their core temperature dips below 70°F, food rots in their stomach. If their enclosure gets below 70°F, NO FEEDING. They will be okay not eating for 90s days. Skinny at the end, but alive and well. Where was I…?
The time is an elected 90-120 days in between November – March. In this period, you lower the temperature, decrease the hours the basking light is on. The idea behind this is to keep with the reptile’s natural cycle of inactivity in winter and getting ready for the breeding season, even if you do not intend to breed your blue tongue skink. Over a two-week period, gradually decrease the basking light hours down to 8 a day or less. The hot side of the tank should be 80-85°F and the cool side can be as low as 60°F and even slightly lower at night.
I tend to see my skinks a random 1 hour in a two-week period during these months where they tend to nibble on a little food, which is why I encourage you to keep their regular feeding schedule. It will mostly go to waste, but you do not want to withhold on them during their brief moment of hunger, and you are likely to miss this window of seeing them since it is so small to begin with. Remember what I just said about temperatures and feeding? Decide ahead of time what your plan is and stick to it!
When you are all done with their winter season, spend another two weeks gradually increasing the temperature and light time to their usual routine. If you are trying to breed, this warm up process can be dragged out an additional few weeks. With the traditional four weeks spent decreasing and increasing their temperature, the entire process can be between 75-120 days. I usually choose December 1 to start, and mid February to begin increasing the temperature and light again. If you live in a warmer climate (not Chicago), the cool-down period may start and end earlier in a calendar year.
Yes, they do shed during brumation.
No, you don’t want to “check up on them to make sure they are okay” while they’re burrowed in silence for weeks on end. It’s like checking on a bear in their den during hibernation – you just don’t do it. Let them be animals.
A rapid way to turn on their breeding cycle is a 2 week decrease in light hours. 3 consecutive weeks of no light and no food. Hot side gets up to 69°F during the day and cool side gets down to 49°F at night. And then an extended, gradual light increase while you attempt to pair as many as you can get before the males tap out.
Indonesian subspecies experience less of a temperature/light swing than their Australian counterparts, but more of a dry/wet season shift. When I decrease light and temperature for everyone, I keep more light hours on with the IJ than the Northerns, and add additional moisture to the habitat. When I do this while decreasing the temperature, I have to till the soil more regularly to keep from mold and other harmful bacteria conditions from forming.
SEXING AND BREEDING
A general rule is: All BTS are boys until you see babies squirt out the rear.
Sexing is incredibly difficult for the blue tongue skink species. Because they give live birth and do not have a vent, there is no great way to determine their sex, especially before adulthood. There are general guidelines for determination, accompanied by a fair share of anomalies. Females tend to be slightly larger and less aggressive than the males, but just like in humans where you can have a tall, angry lady, or a small, submissive man, that generic rule can be fairly useless. This same rule applies to the rest of their physical characteristics. Females tend to have wider hips to accommodate the birthing canal and the males tend to have a larger tail base to accommodate the hemipenes. It is hard to catch, but males will drop sperm plugs during the mating season if they do not have a female present, especially just after coming out of the cool cycle. If you have an adult male, it is physically possible to pop out their hemipenes to see them. There is nothing to pop out in a female. If this is done wrong it will damage your skink. I do not recommend it, have never done it myself nor plan on doing it, but if you feel you are up to the task, there is a video is on Youtube.
Below is a video Joe Ball made, going in depth about ways to sex your adult blue tongue. If you’re unaware, Joe Ball out of Australia, is breeding some of the best blue tongues available on the planet.
If you have multiple skinks at your disposal, and want to see how they interact with others, please supervise at all times. If both skinks are sexually mature, and recently coming out of brumation, their behavior should indicate their sex. Generally, two females will mostly ignore one another, but aggression is possible. Two males will definitely be aggressive with one another, unless you luck out with the most amazingly docile skinks out there. And the opposite sex will usually indicate at least one interested in the another.
First, let’s go over some of the risks. (1) You can do everything right and the male or female still isn’t interested in breeding. (2) Minor cuts and bite scaring during mating. In 2019 George took a bite to the face from Big Mamma and had a black eye for about 6 months. I feared he may have lost it. (3) Loss of limbs. If someone goes for a death roll, expect an arm or leg to tear off. Same goes for a tail. (4) The female dies during child birth or during pregnancy. Not only that, but all her babies die too. (5) The male is unable to get his hemipenes back inside. (6) Babies are born with severe deformities and it’s up to you to cull them (cull means to humanely kill). About half of these require a vet visit with a bill encroaching on a grand each time. Still feeling like breeding is your thing? Please continue below.
If they are to mate, the female will remain still but start to wag her tail in a come-hither motion. This only happens though if she’s interested in mating and likes the bloke. Peeing and running away indicate she is apprehensive towards the male and not ready to breed. The male will become highly alert and wait for the indication that he is in the presence of a female. If he receives an invitation from the female, he will likely race towards her and aggressively nibble at her. Their copulation tends to be a bit aggressive as the male tries to have his way with the female in attempt to gain position. Their copulation may be as short as one minute and potentially longer than 25 minutes.
Remember when I said all BTS are males until you see babies squirt out the rear??? That is because an aggressive male may have his way with a more submissive male. Yes, homosexual copulation does take place within BTS society. If you are waiting around for months for babies to appear, you may be in for a rude awakening. Submissive males will even have a spike in hormone imbalance that triggers a false appearing pregnancy.
I recommend matching up your mating pair at least 3 times to ensure she is gravid if you hope to have babies. And you may want to encounter your BTS with a handful of other adult BTS to ensure you indeed have the sex you suspect you do.
If you get a gravid female, she will give live birth to anywhere between 0 and 24 babies… Yupp. Gestation may be as short as 85 days and potentially longer than 165 days, especially for the Indonesian species. Also keep in mind, the female can maintain viable sperm for months before interacting them with her reproductive system. Frankly, breeding is a little like playing darts in the dark.
If you can monitor the birth, I recommend it. The babies are born in a thin membrane that needs to be removed for them to breath. If they do not figure it out on their own after a minute or two, you can gently rub it off of them. Otherwise the membrane may suffocate them. It is also important that the babies eat their own placenta as a first meal and may need help getting it into their mouth. Mom will usually be a good mom for the first 24-36 hours after the babies are born. But after that she may get territorial and think of them as food. The babies will be active immediately and looking to eat. Birthing a litter can be quite hard on mom. If she struggles, consider breeding her every other year. She may also give birth to a hardened yellow ball. These are unfertilized eggs; normal, edible, and affectionately nicknamed – slugs.
PROBLEMS YOU MAY ENCOUNTER
If fingernails get too long, they will actually continue to grow, curl underneath the hands of your skink, or out to the sides and make it very uncomfortable for your skink to walk. This is a sign it is definitely time to trim their nails, manually. Be wary of their quick. Cutting into their toenail vein is painful and may result in loss of the toe.
There are various health problems associated with these species. They include mouth rot, metabolic bone disease, worms, eye infections and ticks. I have never dealt with any of these personally so therefore do not feel comfortable best advising you how to handle it. I would encourage your own Internet research and seek a professional veterinarian if the condition looks serious or persists what so ever. A good starting website on Blue Tongue Skink Diseases can be found here.
*UPDATE* One of my Irian Jayas had a bulge in the corner of its eye. It was likely a poke from the woodchip substrate. I put it in a quarantine tank on paper towels for a few days and the problem naturally corrected itself. Had it gotten worse or persisted for more than a week, a vet visit would have been required.
*UPDATE* Carl, a Classic Northern produced by reputable breeder, James Wilson, started getting swollen back legs. He dropped some weight and started getting aggressive. If I tried to touch his back legs, it appeared to be painful for him. This lead to my very first vet visit for a Blue Tongue Skink. I used the Association for Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians FIND A VET tool to search for local, approved veterinarians. I called around and scheduled an appointment with the office I felt most comfortable with. Something to keep in mind with these specialists vets. (1) They have a for profit-business to run. (2) They don’t get as many customers as other veterinarian offices do. (3) They likely know a hell of a lot more about animals than you or me, but not specifically as much about Blue Tongue Skinks, especially the particular sub-species you bring to them. Think logically about the services they are offering to you. If you bring in your skink with a skin issue on a limited budget, consider what I mentioned above as they propose x-rays be taken. Don’t be afraid to take charge in the office when managing your skinks care. In my case, I cut out roughly $1000 in suggested testing, and they were still able to sufficiently determine Carl’s kidneys were not functioning properly. He had too much phosphorus in his diet. Skinks need a diet of 2% calcium and 1% phosphorus. After reviewing the Merrick wet dog food and Acana dry dog food I was using, I noticed these ratios were closer to 1.2%-1.6 calcium and 1% phosphorus. That little difference was all it took to throw Carls system out of whack. Even though I was sprinkling on calcium powder with every meal and Carls brother from the same litter was perfectly healthy along with all of my other skinks, for this one of my 10 adult skinks, a diet change and some temporary medications were in order. I proceeded to test different dry dog foods, but Carls issue persisted. After speaking with an associate at a trusted specialty pet food store, I was informed when cats have kidney issues, the common recommendation is to cut out dry foods entirely. Overall, they are harder for kidneys to filter. Another round of Alternagel Susp. and Baytril medications and Carl’s back to normal. He is no longer given dry dog foods of any kind and is doing just fine. Had I known of this sooner, it could have saved me a $625 vet bill + $75 of alternative dry dog foods. I hope an issue like this never happens to you or your skink, but if it does, perhaps there’s a chance to save $700 while keeping your skink in tip-top-shape.
In recent years, especially with the Northerns, prized pattern morphs have come out due to recessive traits being expressed via inbreeding. The inbreeding of genetics may result in a cool pattern, but can cause a kinked spine, kinked tail, or over and under bite jaws. No matter the appropriate calcium levels, not much can be done about shallow genetics. They also tend to be smaller in size and if they never reach 500 grams, it is ill-advised to breed such a small female.
DIFFERENCES IN SKINK CARE: NORTHERN VS IRIAN JAYA
For me, with the natural climate and humidity levels in Chicago, the particular display-style habitats I chose to go with, along with the substrate and heating combo – there are only a few differences in care I enact that caters uniquely to each subspecies.
1) Indonesians need higher humidity. To accomplish that, I add a higher percentage of coconut husk substrate to the hot side and I add more water to it more frequently. I keep the Northern humidity at 40-60%, being on the higher during shedding. And 60-70% for the Irian Jayas, potentially up to 75% during shedding.
2) During the summer months, I may keep lights on the Northerns 12-13 hours or so. But the Indonesians will get 14-16.
3) During the cool down cycle, I may drop Northern light hours to 4 or even zero hours a day. With the Indonesians, it may be as high as 8, but can also go as low as zero hours a day. Keep in mind, I am trying to get them on a breeding cycle here. If that is not your objective, nothing needs to be as extreme or precise. Please review what was previously mentioned in the COOL DOWN/BRUMATION section in addition to these three distinctions of care.
That’s really it.
For each lizard though, I make personal adjustments based on their hydration. Every skink takes in water differently. Some like to lap it up from their bowl, others prefer to burrow when the substrate is moist, others like to hover over the top for a steam affect. Some prefer to remain burrowed the entire time, others prefer lives on the surface. If all conditions are the same in each habitat, some lizards may appear more dry than others for these very reasons. If you skink’s belly is rough, their sheds are flakey or their skin looks cracked, you need to allow more options for your skink to intake water.
ADDITIONAL CARE AND OTHER IMPORTANT FACTS
– They can switch to a more adult themed died after 6 months, but may continue the high protein diet the first two years.
– Though they will continue to shed and grow their entire lives, 90% of their total growth is done the first 2 years.
– Nail maintenance is a must but should be done naturally by them walking over the rocks, brick, and slate you already provided for them.
– The more you handle them the more personable they will be and bond with their hooman.
– Always support their entire body when handling them. Particularly the shoulder and hip areas.
– Their hissing sound is actually a heavy breathing and usually an indication they are not interested in being handled at this time but their mood may change once they are picked up.
– If they make an “arf” type of squeak, they are under distress and need to be attended to instantly
– Interactions with other animals is generally risky. Cats are potentially the safest.
– Feces should be picked up daily. Their feces have two parts consisting of the traditional brown log and an additional white byproduct. The white byproduct is “uric acid” and is how their body expels sodium. Feces left in the habitat will attract mites.
– If you are using natural substrates, a helpful bug called springtails may appear. They are like an in-house cleaning crew and will not harm your skink. Do Not confuse springtails with harmful mites – they look different to the trained eye. Springtails are typically oblong and grey with antennas. Mites are super tiny and round in comparison. They come in white, black and red.
– Water should be changed at least every week and sanitized when they defecate in the bowl